Disconnect to reconnect. The Western Cape’s most lovely nature reserves will tune your physique and thoughts again into the restorative rhythms of Mom Nature.
Phrases & Pictures Scott Ramsay
Locked up too lengthy? Zoomed out? Really feel like a Covid captive? Then it’s time to set your thoughts and physique free in CapeNature’s most interesting reserves. This authorities organisation is chargeable for the biodiversity conservation of wilderness areas and administration of 25 public nature reserves all through the Western Cape. It’ll take you a superb few years of holidays and lengthy weekends to discover all of them so I’ve narrowed down the sphere to my private favourites.
Snorkel with seals at Robberg and sleep over in a Strandloper cabin. Wander the Whale Path on De Hoop’s empty shoreline. Paddle up the Keurbooms River right into a pristine gorge. Energy up these quads to climb peaks in Limietberg and funky off in icy waterfalls. Stroll the mountain paths of Cederberg, camp wild below the celebrities and observe the tracks again to your soul.
Robberg
We slip into the rock pool, and 60 Cape fur seal pups are having the most important jol. Up, down, backwards and forwards, they shoot round us like furry torpedoes within the clear blue water.
Some race up and peer into our masks with their bulbous eyes. I lie nonetheless, and one begins nibbling on my fins, pulling and tugging. Misplaced within the second, and virtually oblivious to the ocean chill, we cavort with the loopy creatures for nearly an hour.
Throughout winter, Cape fur seal pups use the shallow coves of Robberg to develop huge and fats, earlier than heading out into the open seas after they’re about 9 months previous.
As soon as plentiful, the Robberg seals have been hunted to native extinction by fur merchants by 1890. The species obtained formal safety in South Africa solely within the Nineteen Nineties and in 1996, the primary seal pups in over 100 years have been born. Immediately there are about 5 000, making the reserve’s title (‘seal mountain’ in Dutch), apt as soon as extra.
Close to Plettenberg Bay, Robberg is simply 2km² but it surely’s as visually spectacular and biologically wealthy as many bigger reserves. There aren’t any roads within the reserve, simply mountain climbing paths, so whereas a lot of the southern Cape is overdeveloped, this sliver of paradise stays largely because it’s at all times been.
Robberg is likely one of the greatest spots to observe marine wildlife in Africa. The rocky sandstone peninsula is about 4km lengthy and virtually completely surrounded by the Indian Ocean, a lot of which is a marine protected space, vital not just for seals but in addition humpback, Bryde’s and southern proper whales, and ahem, nice white sharks.
Keep Right here
Fountain Shack, on the southern aspect of Robberg, is a cabin outfitted for self-catering (kitchen, braai, bunk beds, mattresses, bathroom, sizzling bathe). Solely accessible by a 45-minute hike from the doorway gate, so guests want to hold in all meals, drinks and firewood. Most eight folks, R960 per night time for 4, R150 per further individual.
Conservation Reality
Anatomically fashionable people have lived on this shoreline for a lot of the previous 120 000 years. A number of websites on Robberg have been studied by archaeologists. Take a look at Nelson’s Cave on the northern aspect of the peninsula the place a easy however informative show explains the human historical past of the area.
Insider Tip
Nature information and photographer Ian Pletzer lives in Plettenberg Bay. ‘The most effective place to view marine wildlife is from the cliffs on the northern aspect of Robberg. Keep in mind your binos, and if you happen to’re a photographer, use a polariser filter for pictures of seals, sharks and whales within the water.’ Contact Ian on 060 521 8737 for a guided tour, together with birding and seal snorkelling. R1 000 per half-day, most six folks.
Keurbooms
A heavy morning mist hangs low over the Keurbooms River gorge. We go away the noisy N2 behind us, paddling our canoes upriver in the direction of our vacation spot, Whisky Creek Cabin.
This river is deep and darkish, flowing from the mountains north of Plettenberg Bay into the Indian Ocean. My paddle dips into the inky water and for the primary time shortly, I can hear myself respiration.
We lose cell reception, escaping WhatsApp and Instagram. Quickly sufficient, nevertheless, we choose up one other sign, the unique reference to the respiration, dwelling planet.
The solar breaks by and spotlights historic yellowwood bushes, standing tall on the river banks like unshaven, wrinkly grandfathers coated in old-man’s beard.
Knysna turacos (loeries) fly sorties by the riparian forest, brilliant crimson flashes on a dappled emerald canvas. Otter tracks embellish the sandy river banks.
Fleetingly we see bush pigs within the undergrowth however they scuttle away. Nature turns up the quantity when fish eagles let rip with their clarion calls. Goosebumps cowl my physique. It feels oh-so-good.
Whiskey Creek Cabin is 7km upstream from the Keurbooms mouth. Remoted in a deep gorge, this easy cabin is the proper place to do nothing… however expertise every thing.
The solar dips behind the mountains. We make a hearth, crack a chilly beer, and watch as a rising moon exhibits off. After dinner we lie on mattresses close to the glowing embers, gazing up at a billion stars. Beat that, Netflix!
Keep Right here
Whiskey Creek, a 90-minute paddle upstream from the N2 bridge, is a big wood cabin and the one place to remain in Keurbooms Nature Reserve. It’s outfitted for self-catering, with sizzling showers, a bathroom and bunk beds. A braai deck appears to be like over the river and gorge. Decide up canoes at CapeNature workplaces on the japanese finish of the bridge. Max 10 folks, from R1 470 for six folks, R230 per further individual.
Conservation Reality
Solely 15% of rivers and estuaries in South Africa are deemed in a superb situation. Keurbooms is one in all them. The river is a web site of nationwide conservation significance and the estuary is one in all solely three websites the place uncommon Knysna seahorses survive. It’s additionally the principle water supply for Plett; the Bitou Municipality extracts over eight million litres of water per day upstream from Whiskey Creek.
Insider Tip
Henk Niewoudt is conservation supervisor of the reserve, and a eager naturalist. ‘Keurbooms is a superb place to identify African finfoot. Look out for them within the reeds close to Whiskey Creek Cabin. And preserve eyes open for indicators – or sounds – of leopards within the forest. This a part of the southern Cape has an honest variety of them.’
Cederberg (and Matjiesrivier)
When the primary uitlanders pitched up in Southern Africa, maybe the Bushmen noticed what was coming and retreated into the mountains. The Cederberg nonetheless looks like that: a refuge from the greedy tentacles of so-called ‘civilisation’.
However the place do you go on this labyrinthine mountain wilderness, filled with nooks, crannies, peaks and valleys?
It’s one of many few nature reserves in South Africa the place you possibly can nonetheless sleep out below the celebrities, wherever you need (with a allow). Everybody ought to get to the Wolfberg Arch, the Maltese Cross and Sneeuberg. These are prime of the record for adventurous selfie pictures.
However if you happen to like your Cederberg wilderness completed uncooked (with fewer folks), then head to the north, close to Pakhuis Go. The Kliphuis cottages and campsite make a superb base from which to discover the northern Cederberg.
The sandstone rock formations listed here are often known as Rocklands, now a world-famous bouldering web site. On weekends, climbers cling mightily onto the boulders like honorary rock agamas.
The Cederberg has a whole lot of 1000’s of rock-art work, most between 2 000 – 5 000 years previous. The best place to see them is at Stadsaal Caves and Truitjieskraal in Matjiesrivier Reserve, which is admittedly a part of the central Cederberg (however for some motive has a distinct title).
Strolling round Truitjieskraal, particularly, is a bit like strolling by the Louvre in Paris – besides you’re in the midst of a largely pristine mountain wilderness that additionally occurs to be one of the crucial ecologically numerous locations on Earth, with 1000’s of fynbos species.
Keep Right here
The Kliphuis cottages and websites price from R840 per night time for 4 folks (max eight folks, R140 per further individual) and tenting websites price from R120 per web site for 2 folks (max six folks, R20 per further individual).
Driehoek Farm on the base of Tafelberg is essentially the most lovely, and private, of the non-public lodging. Homeowners Dawie and Lizette Burger know these mountains higher than most and can fortunately assist you plan your journey. Tenting from R390 for six folks, and cottages from R580 for 2 folks. 027 482 2828, e mail [email protected]
Conservation Reality
The Cederberg probably has extra rock work per sq. kilometre than every other place in Africa. Probably the most generally painted giant animal within the Drakensberg is the eland however within the Cederberg, the elephant is primary. Colonial data present that elephants nonetheless existed within the close by Olifants River valley within the 1700s, earlier than they have been shot out.
Insider Tip
Discipline ranger in northern Cederberg, Jona Zimri descends from an extended line of powerful mountain males. His father John made lots of the mountain climbing trails and found a whole lot of rock artwork work. ‘Make certain to do the 13km Pakhuisberg day stroll. Among the greatest views within the Cederberg and few folks do it. There are two lovely waterfalls on the best way, and it’s not that strenuous.’
Limietberg
Drive from Cape City on the N1, previous Paarl, by Du Toits Kloof tunnel, and whenever you emerge on the opposite aspect, the mountains are so steep they appear to wobble within the wind.
The Drakensberg will be the highest mountain vary in South Africa however close-up these southern peaks appear simply as spectacular. That is Limietberg Nature Reserve, an unlimited protected space of 1 000km² that stretches from Franschhoek all the best way to Wellington.
In winter, heavy snowfalls can deliver visitors to a standstill, and precipitous cliff faces are drenched by thunderous waterfalls. Within the dry, searing summers, the rivers preserve flowing. The Limietberg is the principle watershed for the Breede and Berg Rivers that offer a lot of Cape City’s water.
There aren’t any formal entrances or exits to sprawling Limietberg. The best and hottest strategy to expertise this rugged reserve is the 26km Bain’s Kloof Go, from Worcester within the east, or Wellington within the west.
Bain’s Kloof Go itself is a road-building marvel, began in 1849 and constructed by cohorts of convicts. Absolutely these shackled prisoners will need to have appeared up at waterfalls, and wished for a time off from stone-breaking to relax by the rock swimming pools?
You may’t go flawed strolling the 9km path to the waterfalls on the prime of Bobbejaanskloof Path, which begins close to the highest of Bain’s Kloof Go. After dropping down and up throughout the Witte River, the trail follows a delicate upward contour, solely getting a bit steep in the direction of the highest of the gorge, the place the waterfalls reveal themselves spectacularly.
We spent a couple of hours swimming within the waterfalls’ icy rock swimming pools, sharing the water with a couple of Cape river frogs. We warmed up afterwards within the candy orange sunshine, basking like dassies. Verreaux’s eagles soared above, holding test on their larder.
Keep Right here
The spectacular Tweede Tol campsite can get noisy and congested, so go to outdoors lengthy weekends and holidays. Be careful for brazen baboons which can assist themselves to any meals that isn’t stashed away. Max six folks, from R160 per web site for 2, R60 per further individual.
Conservation Reality
This mountain panorama is a haven for leopard, klipspringer and honey badger, but in addition the endangered white-tailed mouse and the endemic Verreaux’s mouse which pollinates a number of protea species. Within the glowing streams you could discover the tiny Cape kurper, galaxias and redfin fish, all indigenous species below critical menace from launched trout, bass, tilapia and catfish.
Insider Tip
Native mountaineer Stephen Davis has climbed a lot of the peaks within the Western Cape, however Limietberg is one in all his favorite locations to relax. ‘Spring and autumn are one of the best occasions to go to. For those who’re feeling lazy, there’s no must go on an enormous mountain mission. Stroll upstream from Tweede Tol, and there are a number of rock swimming pools and waterfalls to swim in – good for youths. And the water is so clear you possibly can drink straight from the river.’
De Hoop
The Whale Path in De Hoop Nature Reserve is likely one of the hottest multi-day trails in SA. The closely used cabins have been displaying put on and tear, however lately they’ve been upgraded and renovated.
The five-night path begins at Potberg within the north of the reserve, ascending to the mountain summits with views over the Breede River and southwards to the Indian Ocean. However the magic revs up on the third day whenever you drop all the way down to Noetsie cabins on the coast.
The newly constructed A-frame huts sit simply above the shoreline, looking over a rocky seaside with a honey-coloured estuary. Caspian terns circle overhead, oystercatchers trot on the rocky shore-line. Throughout the seaside is a big cave, the place archaeologists have discovered proof of early fashionable humankind.
Over the last glacial interval about 160 000 years in the past, whereas a lot of the remainder of the world was dessicated or coated over by ice, this area’s local weather remained comparatively benign. The proof means that this shoreline might have been the one place in Africa the place homo sapiens thrived at the moment.
Whereas different components of historic Africa will be exhilarating and thrilling, this shoreline of the southern Cape appears calming and nurturing. The local weather is mushy, there’s loads of contemporary water, and the ocean is rippling with colleges of fish. Sure, I may very well be a Strandloper right here!
We swam within the rock swimming pools and appeared out over the open ocean, and some southern proper whales cruised previous, about 50m offshore. De Hoop is world – well-known for its congregations of this whale species in spring time, when adults come to mate and mothers give delivery to infants within the heat waters.
Keep Right here
There are 5 in a single day huts on the Whale Path: Potberg, Cupidoskraal, Noetsie, Hamerkop and Vaalkrans. The primary two are good sufficient however set away from the ocean and surrounded by loads of invasive gum and wattle bushes. The three coastal huts are very good, and every has its personal character. From R1 795 per individual for the hike; bookings of six or 12 folks solely.
After the path (or every other time) spend an evening or two in relative luxurious at De Hoop Assortment within the west of the reserve. The brand new restaurant overlooks De Hoop vlei and is a vacation spot in itself. From R1 500 for a rondavel for 2 folks.
021 422 4522
dehoopcollection.com
Conservation Reality
The marine protected space (MPA) offshore of De Hoop supplies a secure haven for fish to breed and spawn, repopulating overfished areas round it. However paradoxically, the MPA wasn’t declared to guard fish. As a substitute, within the Eighties, the parastatal Denel needed to check missiles over the open ocean, so that they selected this strip of Cape shoreline, turning it right into a nature reserve. Thankfully, there’s no missile testing lately.
Insider Tip
Tim Lundy is the Western Cape’s mountain climbing guru, and has walked each main path within the province. Tim enjoys a steep path but in addition doesn’t thoughts taking it straightforward occasionally. ‘The Whale Path is likely one of the few multi-day hikes which affords a slackpacking choice, the place your luggage and meals will be pushed between huts. Carry a lightweight day pack, and benefit from the path with out having to slog it.’