A bearded younger man stares at a international passport, looking for a visa to the now out of date Islamic Republic of Afghanistan. A white flag bearing the shahada, the Islamic oath, flutters over the border crossing in Hairatan, which from August 15 has marked the northern frontier of the brand new Islamic Emirate.
The person places a stamp on the primary web page of the passport, the one that ought to stay clean. He doesn’t know the best way to scan the traveler’s bag so he opens it and meticulously goes via its contents. He makes up for his lack of expertise with a smile and desires the vacationers an excellent journey in damaged English.
Calm chaos are the perfect phrases to explain the scenario in Afghanistan one month after the Taliban takeover.
The withdrawal of international forces, a hasty evacuation of foreigners and 1000’s of Afghans fleeing to security after the autumn of Kabul was adopted by procedural chaos and nationwide confusion. Nobody is aware of how harsh the brand new rulers will likely be. However everybody is aware of that the outdated days of comparatively relaxed social and political relations are gone.
With the chaos, nonetheless paradoxically, additionally got here order. For a few years it was unimaginable to cross the nation by land. Taliban checkpoints in locations outdoors of the federal government’s management have been doubtlessly harmful and street crime was frequent. Now, crossing the nation has develop into simpler than ever.
The gap between Hairatan and Kabul is 450 kilometers, however passing over the outdated, poorly maintained roads, the journey can take greater than 10 hours. Drivers now be certain to change off the music earlier than they method the few Taliban checkpoints on the way in which. As one Taliban commander mentioned, music doesn’t should be formally banned. Individuals already comprehend it’s a sin.
Most checkpoints may be handed with relative ease. Though the Taliban should not current on all of the roads within the nation, touring has develop into a lot safer. Individuals know that regardless of the absence of clear new guidelines, the punishment for any wrongdoing will likely be harsh.
However as Alamamed Amiri, 26, a site visitors policeman in central Kabul, tells me, the police are now not allowed to offer fines, which, he argues, the Taliban deem haram, forbidden by Islam. Not like many different policemen within the nation, he determined to proceed working beneath the brand new authorities. The Taliban promised to not take revenge in opposition to the site visitors police for serving Kabul’s former authorities.
Whereas the brand new authorities has promised a nationwide renewal within the spirit of Islam, it wants the institutional reminiscence, procedures, and workers of the previous republic to run the nation. Many administrative staff have determined to remain of their positions and proceed serving beneath the brand new rulers.
With out them, the entire state system would fall into disarray.
Watching metropolis life from the streets can present essential insights into the modifications inside Afghan society.
“The streets are much less crowded and nothing is functioning correctly,” Amiri says. “The elites are gone however common individuals have stayed. The streets are safer. Individuals are afraid of the Taliban. There are a lot much less girls outdoors too.”
Whereas official guidelines on feminine clothes are nonetheless unclear, girls know what the return of the Taliban means for them. Regardless of the resistance by social media activists who’ve been posting photos in conventional Afghan clothes bearing the hashtag #donttouchmyclothes, avenue trend displays concern quite than revolt. Confronted with the unknown, many ladies select to remain at residence.
Others are swiftly updating their closets. Hamida Karimi, a 28-year outdated dentist, walks round one of many buying malls in central Kabul, her stunning, confident face contrasted with the black, shapeless abaya and burgundy hijab she is sporting. She appears to be like for conservative outfits that will match the brand new unwritten guidelines, although she outlets with out a lot enthusiasm.
“I’ve at all times worn shorter garments, not longer than above the knee. It was snug and I may stroll within the streets by myself, even within the night. Now I solely journey by taxi. I’ve heard that I could possibly be attacked or insulted so I’ve to purchase new garments. It’s by no means occurred to me however I’ve heard such tales,” Karimi says.
“I used to review German however I’ve not too long ago give up the course as a result of co-education is now not allowed. I may attend a bunch with girls solely however we’re all scared. I now examine on-line.”
Karimi determined to proceed working, nonetheless, as she didn’t wish to abandon her sufferers. However work has modified, too. She will be able to now not run the clinic collectively along with her male enterprise companion and solely accepts feminine sufferers. She was not pressured to make this transfer – she did that, she says, for her personal safety.
“There have been no good modifications up to now month. The banks are closed, native administration and ministries too. We don’t know who’re the individuals within the interim authorities. Kids are afraid to go to high school and are petrified of the lads with weapons. I can’t sleep at night time due to nightmares.”
Karimi desires to depart as quickly as she will be able to, however alternatives to take action are scarce now. 1000’s of Afghans are searching for a chance to depart the nation. The vacation spot shouldn’t be a difficulty, so long as wherever they find yourself shouldn’t be beneath strict Taliban rule.
Murtaza Sultani, 19, has been attempting all of the alternative ways to flee, thus far to no avail. For the previous two years he has run a barber store in central Kabul. He made an important effort to design the inside, which is now totally coated in wooden with quirky capes bearing the picture of the U.S. flag. Earlier than the approaching of the Taliban, he had round 20 prospects a day; now solely two or three. Because the Taliban ban trimming beards, individuals stopped frequenting his store.
“Individuals are afraid. The Taliban have already gone to some outlets run by my pals and mentioned they need to cease trimming beards and chopping individuals’s hair in Western kinds. I’m not afraid of the Taliban however work is troublesome, I fear concerning the enterprise. We pay $500 in hire a month and we can’t afford it,” says Sultani.
Sultani is an ethnic Hazara and he doesn’t have facial hair, which can additionally develop into an issue sooner or later. He might quickly have to shut his enterprise. The close by store promoting DVDs has already closed.
Previously month, Kabul has misplaced a few of its former appeal. The murals highlighting social issues, corruption, and ladies’s rights that have been unfold throughout the town are actually gone, changed by spiritual messages. A couple of murals are nonetheless left, however it’s clear that they may quickly fall into oblivion and so will the outdated tricolor flag. The white shahada is turning into ever-present. It’s the principal product provided by avenue sellers as of late.
However not everyone seems to be nervous concerning the coming of the Taliban. Wazir Mohammadi, a 23-year outdated banana vendor from Kapisa, says that for the reason that Taliban takeover, avenue crime has decreased.
“I used to be comfortable when the Taliban arrived in Kabul. Earlier, it was filled with thieves stealing my bananas and cash. I used to be robbed thrice. Now it’s secure,” he says.
There are downsides to the brand new system, nonetheless.
“Previously I may earn as much as 10,000 Afghanis a month. Now it’s round 5-6,000. Individuals don’t wish to purchase extra meals, there isn’t any work, individuals don’t have cash and don’t wish to depart their properties. All the things has modified after the Taliban took energy.”
It’s unclear how lengthy the financial disaster will final. Drought has displaced 1000’s and there’s a concern that Afghanistan will quickly face meals shortages. A lot of Afghanistan’s $9.5 billion in international reserves are situated outdoors of Afghanistan. The funds are frozen and banks have put in place withdrawal limits of $200 per week. Authorities staff haven’t been paid for the previous three months. Afghan markets are full of individuals promoting their belongings.
It is usually unclear what course the Taliban will soak up the long run. Dwelling searches have already begun, protests have been banned, and gender segregation in colleges imposed. A number of native journalists have been severely crushed by the brand new police. However for common individuals, and foreigners, the Taliban have thus far been lenient.
Younger bearded males have appeared on Kabul’s streets, streets they’ve by no means recognized earlier than, whose life and vibe they don’t perceive. A lot of them got here from the provinces; others had been launched from prisons solely weeks earlier than. Recognizing a Talib doesn’t show onerous within the capital. Lengthy hair and untrimmed beards, conventional two-garment garments, turbans or small caps with a minimize within the entrance are their attribute indicators.
They patrol the streets in massive Jeeps inherited from the Afghan and U.S. armies with massive flags hooked up to them. However a lot of them simply benefit from the metropolis. They frequent zoos, amusement parks, and public locations; they take selfies, relishing their newly gained energy. Watching them, one can’t assist the sensation that the principle divides inside Afghan society have been not solely spiritual and ethnic, but additionally of sophistication. The boys, most of them poorly educated, who grew up outdoors of huge cities, are actually in cost and so they wish to get to know their new capital.
Taliban fighters additionally frequent the now empty prisons, opened on the onset of the autumn of Kabul. A few of them served time behind the bars, others go to out of curiosity.
Qudratullah Nazim spent 10 years within the infamous Pul-e-charkhi jail in Kabul. He walks via the corridors with a bunch of Taliban and his reminiscence floats again to the times of his detention. He admits that he killed individuals. Initially from Kandakhar, he commanded a bunch working in Kabul, Helmand, and Kandahar. His brother went on a suicide mission and Nazim is pleased with him. The entire household is.
“They attacked our nation in 2001, they have been brutal, bombed marriage ceremony halls, madrassas, and mosques. We have been solely defending our land, our individuals and our faith,” he says.
His time in custody was onerous. He remembers very nicely the torture he was subjected to: spraying with tear gasoline, electroshocks, beatings. Now Nazim enjoys coming again to the jail, visiting his outdated cell. He’s free, however the place will stay an essential a part of his story – and Afghanistan’s historical past – endlessly.
Nazim is proud that the Taliban have defeated the enemy. He can’t clarify, nonetheless, what sort of authorized system will substitute the outdated order.
“We are going to introduce Islamic regulation,” he says. “We don’t give attention to the punishment however crime prevention. We are going to attempt to forestall corruption and if somebody commits a criminal offense we’ll punish solely them, not their complete household just like the earlier authorities.”
Crime prevention beneath the Taliban has thus far proved profitable. The nation lives in concern. However whether or not the brand new rulers can govern and management the nation stays to be seen — similar to the true face of the brand new Taliban.