The glitz and glamour of leisure is nothing with out the individuals who gown at the moment’s largest stars. For “Who’s Behind the Garments,” HuffPost spotlights stylists and costume designers who’ve delivered a few of our favourite celebrities’ or characters’ most memorable seems to be. Learn my interview with “Business” costume designer Colleen Morris-Glennon.
Tiffany Hasbourne has taken her trend skills world, from her Caribbean family within the LeFrak Metropolis neighborhood in Queens, New York, to Colombia, Germany and past. However earlier than she turned the costume designer on Donald Glover’s FX collection “Atlanta,” she attended school in Georgia.
The stylist and costume designer graduated from the Artwork Institute of Atlanta with a level in laptop animation. Nevertheless, self-expression via clothes had been a typical thread via her life, relationship way back to her personal faculty days. When Hasbourne advised her father she deliberate to modify lanes to trend, he struggled to know the idea.
“And oddly, he didn’t actually perceive what I did till I did the TV present ‘Shooter,’” stated Hasbourne, recalling the primary collection she designed on her personal. “Due to him being within the army, he was truly fairly impressed that I understood army uniforms. He was like, ‘So who do you gown on the present?’ I laughed like, ‘Everyone, Dad!’”
From costume designing on “P-Valley” to the pilot for “All American: Homecoming” to “Ballers” and different reveals, Hasbourne has made a reputation for herself in tv and movie. She obtained her begin working with purchasers resembling radio persona Angie Martinez, rapper Busta Rhymes and musical icon Missy Elliott; in recent times, she’s added actor Brian Tyree Henry to her roster.
“What I’ve discovered working with Busta and Missy has made me a {custom} queen,” she stated. “As a result of I really feel like I get to supply somebody no matter they need with out limitation.”
Hasbourne believes that neither her purchasers nor her profession ought to have limitations, refusing to be confined to a stylist-vs.-costume-designer binary. Moderately, she believes within the energy of “each, and.” Hasbourne talked to HuffPost about designing the ultimate season of “Atlanta,” bridging European type with Southern flare, and what’s subsequent in her trend profession.
What’s your artistic course of for finding out a personality and envisioning their type? From Uncle Clifford in “P-Valley” to Paper Boi and Earn in “Atlanta,” they’re every very totally different in how they current and within the messaging they’re making an attempt to ship as properly.
One of many issues I actually had to consider by way of doing Season 2 of “Atlanta,” I keep in mind my present [that I was working on] had simply shut down as a result of an actor obtained harm. I went on trip, and I watched all of “Atlanta” Season 1. I used to be like, “OK, how do you make this totally different?” At the moment, the present didn’t have some huge cash for wardrobe but, which was nice, as a result of that’s after I use my sources as a stylist. I used to be ready to usher in my relationship with Adidas, which then in flip, Donald [Glover] ended up getting an Adidas deal. One of many issues that I pitched to him was what folks don’t understand is that regardless that artists could seem like they’ve cash, lots of people are giving them issues. We will make it the place he’s utilizing promo. I truly used promo to begin influencing the characters round Paper Boi and Paper Boi himself — as a result of once you’re an artist and folks provide you with free stuff, you share. Donald truly associated to that as an artist, as a result of he was like, “That’s tremendous correct. As a result of I try this with [my brother] Stephen.”
I believe that was one of many issues that we have been capable of do in Season 2 by way of seeing the Prps [jeans], the Adidas, AKOO, which was an Atlanta-based model, and doing what would make sense in the actual world. After I consulted for Season 3, with the European designer, I simply gave her some manufacturers that I believed the actors would put on. After all, she did her personal factor with that. The stand-alone episodes for Season 3 that I did, they have been particular person tales, so I simply tailor-made these to what the story was. The imaginative and prescient for Season 4 was each time I’ve ever completed a job in a foreign country, how did that affect my specific private type? What I made positive I did with Season 4 was be certain they’re a bit bit extra elevated.
We went from watching Earn, who dropped out of Princeton, battle endlessly to seeing him fitted in designer.
Proper. It’s a kind of issues the place it’s powerful with “Atlanta” as a result of the garments are by no means Hiro [Murai]’s and Donald’s precedence. It’s in regards to the story. It’s in regards to the visuals by way of the way it seems to be and what the storyline is. It must be subtly completed the place it’s not of their face as a result of if it’s too contrived, they’re like, “No, no, we don’t prefer it.” As somebody who went to highschool in Atlanta, I must actually ship Hiro an image like, “Bro, have a look at this dude within the mall. They do essentially the most!” It’s that world the place, creatively, you’re making an attempt to push the envelope. You’re like, “I do know you don’t need it to be this, however that is Atlanta. They’ll go broke making an attempt to maintain up!”
I believe it was about elevating it. After I went to shoot in Europe, watching European trend helped elevate me. I used that by way of the way it influenced Van, and the lesson of how what Paper Boi went via made Earn wish to elevate as a supervisor and be taken severely. One of many enjoyable characters to at all times put wild stuff on, which is definitely fairly straightforward as a result of they really push you to go left, is LaKeith [Stanfield]’s character. As a result of Darius has at all times form of gone left. I really feel like, as odd as it’s, there’s loads of stress in making his character stand out, but in addition making it the place it’s cool sufficient that folks can also relate to it.
Inform me about the way you handled that transition, from emulating European type to conveying the place they’re now geographically and professionally. What can we count on from the remainder of Season 4, and the way would you describe the characters’ type evolutions this season?
The gorgeous factor about “Atlanta” is that every season has nothing to do with the opposite. There was one thing attention-grabbing about it, as a result of I had a dialog with the costume designer that was going to do the European portion of it. They went to Europe, they shot it, and I had no clue what they landed on or what they ended up doing. They got here again, we did all of Season 4, then we shot all the stand-alone episodes for Season 3. I used to be capable of ask, “Can I see just a few photos of what you probably did in Europe?” However to me, it didn’t matter as a result of I believe every episode is so totally different. So long as I had the query in my head: How have been you influenced once you lived overseas, and the way can we use that to play into these characters? That was at all times the inspiration for me by way of the place I went with the characters.
I had waited for years for the present to come back again. It was such a tough dynamic for me, as a result of I had shot half of the film “Hustle” with Adam Sandler. I used to be supposed to return and end the second half, but it surely was clashing with the timing of Season 4. I used to be like, “I gotta return and end what I began with ‘Atlanta.’” I’ve a storyboard that I just about offered to Hiro and Donald for each episode earlier than we did it and shopped it. I knew precisely what I needed for every episode. As soon as I learn it, I knew precisely what I needed these characters to seem like. I might inform my customers verbatim, “I’m on the lookout for this. That is what I need. I need this. Right here’s a visible of it,” even all the way down to what I needed the looters to seem like.
You got here from a background the place you styled athletes. How have these expertise carried over into your work in costume design on tv?
One of many causes I believe Lev [Stephen Levinson] employed me for “Ballers” is as a result of he didn’t even understand dressing athletes’ our bodies can be a problem. After I was dressing LeSean “Shady” McCoy, though “Shady” wasn’t the largest, he had large thighs as a result of he was a operating again. It was like what denims are good for a operating again? Ones which have stretch, that give within the thighs, so AG denims. With every challenge, I’ve discovered to do what’s finest for the actor. Engaged on “Atlanta,” I now have grow to be Brian Tyree Henry’s stylist. One of many issues that I like about him is on his press tour for “Bullet Prepare,” GQ named him the most effective dressed on the press tour. One of many challenges for him is that he isn’t essentially pattern dimension. You should purchase him off the rack, however he isn’t pattern dimension. Then on prime of that, he’s actually busy. He doesn’t have time, on a regular basis to do fittings, pull a bunch of stuff, for us to have an hour becoming, then let a tailor have two hours to do alterations. One of many issues that I like is we do loads of {custom} items for him. The factor that I like about that’s I nonetheless get to make him really feel good in his physique.
One in every of issues I liked about “In Therapy” with Uzo [Aduba] — as a result of Uzo’s not plus dimension, she’s curvy — we have been capable of do monochromatic sizzling pink. I’m positive you perceive being tall, you generally have to purchase a much bigger dimension simply to get the size of one thing accurately, then you must take the pants in or do one thing else. Then, they wish to supply it in black or grey or blue, however what in order for you yellow?
What I’ve discovered working with Busta [Rhymes] and Missy [Elliott] has made me a {custom} queen. As a result of I really feel like I get to supply somebody no matter they need with out limitation. If [“P-Valley” creator] Katori [Hall] says, “I need one thing inexperienced,” I don’t simply return to her and say, “They don’t have any inexperienced fits within the retailer.” No, I am going make it. It opens your palette by way of what you are able to do when you’re keen to go {custom}. From athletes to curvy girls to males which are taller and/or broader, it’s all about tailoring one thing to an individual. With Uncle Clifford, are you aware how onerous it’s to search out girls’s clothes for a person that’s over 6 ft tall? After I got here in [on “P-Valley”] all of the tailors there have been careworn, and what I used to be capable of do was take my styling sources and go to 5001 in New York and have them make Lil’ Murda’s fur cape, go to Alba designs in LA and order Uncle Clifford’s swimsuit for the grand reopening of the Pynk. You’re capable of go to those totally different sources and produce all of them collectively.
What was it like costume designing on “P-Valley”?
Whenever you are available midseason on a present like “P-Valley,” as a designer, I attempt to be very respectful of what the designer earlier than me began by way of what their imaginative and prescient is. One of many issues that I liked about Katori in our dialog was she was open to what my model of these characters have been. For me, leaping in, it was like, “OK, properly, what did I miss? The place’s Lil’ Murda now? Had he been on tour? He has been on tour. So he’s made a bit cash — and what does that seem like? If he’s standing subsequent to Tina Snow and he’s performing, what does that seem like?” One of many lovely issues about Uncle Clifford is Nicco [Annan] is so hands-on; he already has a imaginative and prescient. With him, creating Uncle Clifford seems to be are like taking part in tennis. He’ll be like, “I like this,” after which it’s my job to take no matter that model is and elevate it or convey it to life. I keep in mind in Season 2, after they’re standing within the poppy fields, and he’s holding the umbrella. There’s a scene the place he’s in these fields, once more, speaking to Corbin, and we performed off the affect of “The Coloration Purple,” when Celie’s sister and her children got here and there was that flowing material. We have been impressed by a designer who had all these totally different materials and obtained a custom-made outfit, the place he’s standing close to his Cadillac and there are the blowing items within the wind.
Inform me about your journey into styling and costume design. Who ignited the spark for you?
My mom. I went to personal faculty till I obtained to highschool, and I needed to beg to go to public highschool. To ensure that my father to permit me to go, I needed to get accepted to a specialised highschool, which was then the Excessive College of Vogue Industries. Going to a non-public faculty, regardless that you put on a uniform, what most individuals didn’t understand was you’re making an attempt to separate your individuality from everyone else who wears the identical factor as you. One of many issues that I used to get pleasure from was purchasing with my mom. I keep in mind going purchasing with my mom on South Avenue in Philly and [visiting] this little vintage store or classic store, and she or he purchased me this fork and spoon earring. Folks have been like, “Why the fork and spoon?” and I used to be like, “I don’t know. I simply assume it’s cool!”
Particularly once you go to a spiritual faculty the place you’re the minority — I went to St. John’s in Queens in School Level. Then, I went to Kew Forest, which was in Kew Gardens, the place loads of my classmates have been from very prosperous neighborhoods the place that they had some huge cash. We did rather well for ourselves, however my father lived very modestly, in order that I might go to personal faculty. It was a kind of issues the place you put on a uniform, however you discover the proper shoe, you discover the proper jewellery, you discover the proper equipment. I believe that’s performed an enormous half in me being a stylist, studying the right way to take one thing and take advantage of out of it. Folks assume that being round individuals who have cash, they purchase all this designer stuff — and it’s truly actually the other. They purchase items. It actually taught me the right way to take staple objects, broaden on them, and make it work.
What attracts you into specific tasks? What makes you wish to signal on and say sure?
Every challenge has been totally different for me. For “Ballers,” it was the problem of me doing what I used to be already doing in actual life and placing it on display. I had watched issues that I believed have been purported to symbolize us however watching them, I used to be like, “This isn’t proper. Like, we wouldn’t try this,” which is without doubt one of the issues that I’ll without end be grateful to Stephen Levinson about. That was one of many producers that I might actually go to, sit and say, “We wouldn’t do that,” and he would go “OK, what would you do?” and he would truly hear.
For “Ballers,” it was the urge of eager to get it proper. I believe it was the identical with “All American: Homecoming,” and really liking the present that got here previous to that. For “Shooter,” it was the truth that I didn’t have the expertise to do it. I keep in mind my first interview, I used to be in all probability on the cellphone with 10 executives and principally they stated, flat out, “Why ought to we provide you with this job?” and I used to be like, “I don’t have an ego. All I can do is put my efficiency earlier than my satisfaction and get this proper.” It was actually onerous, however to this present day, Omar Epps is sort of a brother to me. I really feel like we walked away with this household, doing one thing that was actually onerous and difficult, that had critical content material, however all of us dedicated to it and took it very severely.
The primary few tasks of my profession, though they have been reveals that had folks of coloration in them, they weren’t actually thought of cultural staples or contact factors. When “Atlanta” was offered to me, for the primary time, I used to be like, “Oh, properly, right here’s my alternative to do this.” For me, the draw was going again to Atlanta, proper. I went to highschool in Atlanta, I do know town of Atlanta. I really feel like as a lady from New York, that was the place I first gained my independence. I first began dressing artists there, stepping out alone and doing trend, working with teams like Jagged Edge. That was me going again to my roots. Now, I believe I choose tasks based mostly on what’s going to maneuver the needle.
Is there a specific character you’ve styled on a present that has been your favourite or essentially the most difficult?
I don’t have any favorites, as a result of they’re all so totally different. Now, I’ve favourite seems to be that I’ve created the place I’ve been like, “Oh, this one is a favourite for me,” however I don’t have favourite characters, as a result of I believe every of them have been so particular and distinctive to me. Dr. Brooke on “In Therapy” was a particular one for me as a result of that is the primary time that we see a therapist that’s coming from a neighborhood in LA the place Black girls have cash. It was crucial, particularly with somebody who wasn’t a dimension 2, to make it possible for we weren’t lazy in displaying what that seemed like and pushing the envelope by way of what that type seemed like. I keep in mind on that present they have been making an attempt to maintain issues actual conservative. That was a 22-episode collection, and Uzo Aduba was in each episode. I needed to construct a model of her physique simply to attempt outfits on the model, as a result of she wasn’t at all times obtainable for becoming. I had like 4 superb monochromatic seems to be. The producers simply saved bumping us on it, like “No, no, no.” Then Inauguration Day occurred and Michelle Obama, Jennifer Lopez, and everybody walked out in these lovely monochromatic seems to be. We have been like, “You see! That is it. That is what persons are doing.”
What are you engaged on at the moment?
The identify of this film is “Shadow Power.” It’s Kerry Washington and Omar Sy. Assume “Mr. and Mrs. Smith.” Whenever you work with these actors which have these iconic characters, for Kerry, sporting sure coats, she’s like, “It’s too Olivia Pope.” That is her doing a full, live-action film the place she’s combating, so how do I get the viewers to see Kyra and never Olivia Pope, proper? Sure, she’s completed all these different issues since Olivia Pope, however that’s nonetheless one thing for her that she performs. Even for Omar, he has “Lupin.” For me, in all my tasks, a chunk of me that I sprinkle in there’s anyone’s gonna have some kind of fireside footwear. I’m a sneakerhead. The stress for me with Omar was with him doing “Lupin,” he was like, “My character at all times wears Jordan 1s.” I’m like, “Yeah, however they’re not the unique unique joints.” So he’s like, “OK, properly, what are you pondering?” You’re gonna see one thing that’s like, woo.
The place do you see your profession going subsequent?
Actually, I like trend a lot by way of being a dressing up designer, however I might additionally like to creatively produce. I really feel like I’ve a lot to supply by way of sources, with productions who could not have larger budgets, with the ability to assist construct relationships with clothes traces. I see administrators now which are asking designers to assist with their films. As one other costume designer, I’m at all times like, “Oh, my God, like, they need to name such and such,” but it surely’s such as you don’t ever wish to overstep. It’s a must to let every designer do their very own course of. You see TV reveals the place the producers are like, “Hey, we’re on the lookout for upcoming designers.” I might like to be a artistic producer by way of that.
Folks have at all times requested me if I might ever wish to do a line. I wouldn’t wish to do a line however I might positively wish to do some kind of collaboration. Lots of my buddies are like, “It is advisable change your identify on Instagram from @TiffTheStylist to @TiffTheDesigner.” I at all times really feel torn about it as a result of I simply had this dialog with D-Good, who’s the one who gave me the identify @TiffTheStylist. I like there can be no designer with out the stylist. I’m not an “or” lady. I’m not a stylist or designer; I’m a stylist and a designer. I prefer to stay in each worlds.