When people lived in a mechanised transport at 1,800 metres above the bottom, expertise was not our solely assurance. On this pioneering period of the early twentieth century, you wanted a measure of religion and plenty of braveness. And sure, pilots nearly lived on their planes as a result of it used to take days to cross the Pacific Ocean, for instance. Even the Atlantic crossing of horological icon Charles Lindbergh in 1927 took 33 hours. Talking of which, this story requires readability. This isn’t in regards to the Avigation watches nor the Lindbergh and Weems fashions. Certainly, it isn’t about historic aviation and pilot’s watches in any respect.
That’s not to say there should not threads connecting the Spirit watches with Longines’ present aviation fashions. Nonetheless, the Spirit assortment is solely new and one thing extraordinary like this wants a little bit of area to breathe. In itself, this requires a proof however after we heard that there could be a very new assortment from Longines this yr, we knew we needed to have it for the duvet, and get some feedback from the highest brass on the firm. Again in concern #48, we wrote that Longines is on the forefront of classic renaissance, and had been because the Legend Diver of 2007. Actually, no Swiss model has demonstrated command over its personal historical past fairly as Longines has completed. Arguably, the Swatch Group-owned model outlined the reissue watch, and the new-vintage development that has come to dominate watchmaking, counterbalancing the triumph of the sports activities watch.
The Spirit assortment is peak new classic as a result of it’s novel for 2020, and doesn’t exist within the Longines assortment. There was a set bearing the identify Spirit however it’s unrelated. Meaning the Spirit is a wholly new household of watches from a 188-year-old Swiss watchmaker. Take a second to let that sink in, whereas taking into consideration the proof of the depth of the model’s archive. So, whereas we are going to return to the topic of pioneers equivalent to Lindbergh, we are going to open this prolonged missive by being upfront that hyperlinks to the previous listed below are solely religious.
That is significantly putting to us at WOW, as a result of there are such a lot of manufacturers with out heritage, historical past or legitimacy that stake daring claims with even bolder watches. As is our observe in our cowl tales, there isn’t a want to check manufacturers, however the heritage releases from Longines often convey smiles to our faces when it comes time to determine on watches to cowl. There may be all the time one thing actual to debate, and meat to sink our journalistic musings into.
To some extent, no aviator wanted to be related to Longines immediately as a result of the watchmaker was the official provider to the Worldwide Aeronautical Federation greater than 100 years in the past, in 1919.
Tethered to Custom
With such robust collections because the Grasp, HydroConquest and Heritage, to record solely three, the primary query with the Spirit assortment could be this: what does it add to an already various assortment? The quick reply is that it delivers a recent imaginative and prescient for Longines watches that’s nonetheless tethered to the model’s traditions, with out being shackled to them.
To make certain, simply wanting on the watches doesn’t inform the entire story. As we reported final concern, we did handle to get a really feel of the watches immediately and we are able to say it does assist make the case for the Spirit. This story does one factor the watches don’t: relate the watches again to what animates Longines’ aviation timepieces.
There are three primary variants within the Spirit assortment, stratified by a mix of kind and performance. All are united by what we name pencil-style palms (by the requirements
of our home guidelines set in concern #45 however Longines addresses the palms as baton-style) and utilized Arabic numerals, plus 5 stars and the phrase chronometer, as a result of the fashions are COSC-certifed as such. The central second hand and the chronograph second hand are additionally in the identical type, with a diamond form on the tip. All palms and numerals use liberal quantities of SuperLuminova. All watches use new actions, produced completely for Longines by ETA. All are waterproof to 100 metres, and cased in stainless-steel. All have five-year warranties.
On the subject of these 5 stars, Longines says this can be a reflection of the very best quality that it may provide, and is a reference to one thing the model had completed previously. Principally, it’s a five-star ranking, as you may discover in different trades referring to high quality requirements. There may be some indication that these 5 stars featured on the dial of historic items, and plenty of Swiss manufactures previously produced three ranges of high quality, at three distinct worth factors. 5 stars sometimes indicated {that a} given watch was of the very best quality.
The above is all that clearly unites the Spirit assortment, however after all the wrist-presence is what issues. For that, we do have to reference the previous a bit, particularly aviators and explorers. One standout is French ethnologist and explorer Paul-Emile Victor. The opposite nice names cited by Longines are all aviation pioneers, however Victor was totally different. He’s recognized right this moment for organising post-WW2 French expeditions to each poles, however he had already completed pioneering work in Greenland in 1934. Whereas Victor had served within the US Air Power throughout the warfare, this isn’t what hyperlinks him with Amelia Earhart, Elinor Smith and Howard Hughes.
True to Type
To get to the emotional crux of the matter, which is ideal due to the gathering’s identify, we went on to Longines for solutions. Newly minted CEO Matthias Breschan spared various phrases for us. “Every watch in our Heritage section — equivalent to The Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch or the Longines Weems Second-Setting Watch – is the reinterpretation of a particular Longines’ historic mannequin,” stated Breschan.
“The idea behind the creation of Longines Spirit is totally different, this line being somewhat a sworn statement to the pioneer spirit. Due to this fact, the gathering takes totally different aesthetical components from Longines classic pilot’s watches – such because the outsized crown, the flange, the pronounced step across the crystal, the font of the dial, the diamond form indexes or the massive, luminous ‘baton’ palms – and combines them with up to date strains and codes.”
Breschan, previously CEO of Rado, answered all kinds of questions for us on this event. You possibly can hear immediately from him within the second a part of this text on this concern. It was very form of the brand new CEO to talk with us on this topic, provided that he was solely appointed to his present place this yr. Certainly, in case you are considered one of our regulars then you realize we featured him because the CEO of Rado in our Spring concern (#56) this yr. As has been famous by loads of different publications through the years, Longines doesn’t produce watches which might be the imaginative and prescient of anyone particular person, and the Spirit assortment is unquestionably consultant of the DNA of the model, as Breschan famous. Given the identify of the gathering, this remark could be very a lot on-point.
As soon as once more, that is why we just like the hyperlink cast right here with polar explorer Victor. It resonates with Longines’ personal description of the Spirit assortment from its brochure: “Impressed by timeless pioneers, explorers on a mission to enter uncharted territories. Women and men who’ve put their lives at stake to beat the skies, land and seas. That is the true essence of the pioneer spirit: regardless of adversity and failures, pioneers by no means quit.” Maybe we’re studying an excessive amount of into this but it surely appears the Spirit is simply the precise assortment for our present second in historical past.
Three Palms and the Date
Seeking to the watches themselves, we are going to spend a bit time with the three-hander and the chronograph. For extra particulars on the chronograph specifically, please look to our cowl watch part, as typical. As for the three-hander, we coated it in our final concern.
This brings us to a small correction: whereas we do assume your entire Spirit assortment, and the three-hander specifically, looks like a time-travelling watch, we missed the mark final concern. Here’s a higher description: the watch performs the very neat trick of travelling by means of time, from the current to the previous and again once more, to advocate itself in your wrist. That’s genuinely what it looks like, from it to carrying it. This is applicable to all variations of the watch, 40mm and 42mm. Sticklers will wish to take note of the date show as this would be the primary divisive issue. We’re on-record that the 40mm model with out the quantity 3 is probably the most fetching. Anyway, all three-handers use the automated calibre L888.4 with 64 hours of energy reserve and a silicon stability spring.
“Linking historical past with innovation, the brand new fashions take conventional options from pilots’ watches and mix them with up to date strains and codes”
For dial colors, there are a variety together with matt black, grained silver and sunray blue. These are supplied throughout the 40mm and 42mm three-handers, in addition to the chronograph. The chronograph has three pushers and totally different configurations and set-ups for the date than the three-handers. The pusher at 10 o’clock controls the date, and is screwed down to stop unintentional adjustments. The chronograph is powered by the automated calibre L688.4 (see cowl look ahead to particulars).
By way of wearability, we had no points with match, and sure we want it with the bracelet. Having stated that, the NATO strap can be a fantastic possibility. We didn’t discover any sharp edges to the case or the bracelet to complain about, which isn’t unusual. By way of thickness, the three-handers are 11mm and the chronograph is 15mm, so none are precisely best to suit below the sleeve however you possibly can nearly handle it with the 11mm watches. Lastly, there’s a Status version that features a metal bracelet, leather-based strap and NATO strap. This Status possibility is on the market for the 40mm and 42mm three-handers, however not the chronograph.
We go away the ultimate phrase to Breschan, who discusses a number of the particularities of the Spirit assortment, and solutions our questions on the watches.
Congratulations on the brand new position! How has the journey been to date, however our shared current international circumstances?
Thanks! It’s a actual pleasure, and an honour, for me to have joined the Longines household. The watch universe is the one sector I do know which builds on its traditions to go additional and innovate. In watchmaking, perpetuating a convention is what makes us alive. That is significantly true for Longines: a model with a deep historic dimension, launching technically (high-performance) merchandise. Since my arrival, I’ve been absorbing the model’s DNA and along with the groups, I’ll make sure that we are going to proceed growing Longines’ universe. And regardless of the current circumstances, I’m actually assured!
On that notice, what’s the position of a watchmaker in a
state of affairs like this?
These days, no one buys a watch solely to verify the time anymore. Watches have change into an adjunct that permits individuals to specific their values. It’s significantly true for our model. Proudly owning a Longines timepiece is greater than having a sensible object. It’s somewhat thought of as an emblem for a private assertion, telling individuals who you might be, what are your tastes and affinities. In the present day greater than ever, individuals wish to put money into a model they belief, whereas matching their persona. And that is the place we come into play. Carrying a Longines timepiece offers a transparent message: my watch has a narrative to inform, and so do I.
We’re assured that our merchandise and values will enable us to carry our course. We’re delighted to level out that regardless of the actual fact most of our shops and factors of gross sales had been closed for a number of months, we see a constructive development since June. Certainly, in August we had nearly 30% development and over the past three months, we achieved a greater cumulated consequence than over the identical interval in 2019. We’re satisfied that this development will proceed.
“Carrying a Longines timepiece offers a transparent message: my watch has a narrative to inform, and so do I.” — Longines CEO Matthias Breschan
You could have remarked on the ability of dwelling traditions at Longines. How can these traditions be constantly up to date to all the time shock and delight collectors, whereas staying true to its roots?
Honouring custom is what permits (watchmaking) to remain alive and Longines specifically enjoys an impressively wealthy historical past. Longines will quickly have fun its 190 years of existence by means of three centuries. Primarily based in Saint-Imier since its inception, our model’s heritage is a real treasure we intend to cherish. In fact it isn’t a query of confining ourselves to our historical past, however of utilizing it as a springboard to make sure the pursuit of innovation, each technical and aesthetic, which has all the time been the driving power of the model.
How does Longines keep contemporary for brand new generations of watch lovers?
In the present day, Longines is understood and recognised all through the world. That is the results of our model’s loyalty to its origins and values. We’re providing prime quality merchandise that includes refined aesthetics, accuracy and reliability with excellent worth for cash. We’re assured that new generations of watch lovers recognize these belongings and likewise extremely worth our fixed quest for innovation whereas taking advantage of our wealthy Heritage. On this regard, our Heritage section and our new Longines Spirit assortment are assembly nice success. We expect this can be a signal that, for many individuals, and particularly for youthful ones, watchmaking and custom can’t be set aside. With a Longines Heritage or a Spirit mannequin in your wrist, you aren’t solely carrying a watch, you might be a part of historical past.
Final time we spoke, we didn’t get the prospect to cowl your ardour for snowboarding. Fortunately, Longines has a convention right here. Are you enthusiastic about two of your longtime passions assembly?
I might even say that this can be a dream come true. Longines is proud to be the Official Associate of the Worldwide Ski Federation (FIS) and to make its experience in sports activities timekeeping accessible to the good White Circus throughout the FIS World Cup and the FIS Alpine World Ski Championships, which might be held subsequent yr in Cortina, Italy. I sit up for these occasions and likewise to witness the performances of our Ambassador of Magnificence Mikaela Shiffrin in addition to our Longines Relations Mélanie and Loïc Méillard.
Please inform us in regards to the origins of the Spirit assortment.
With the brand new Longines Spirit, our model reaffirms its perception in its legacy. In the course of the first half of the twentieth century, Longines watches and devices obtained the whole belief of many pioneers of exploration and aviation, each women and men. In the present day, the Longines Spirit assortment brings this wealthy heritage again to life. Linking historical past with innovation, the brand new fashions take conventional options from pilots’ watches and mix them with up to date strains and codes. They’re additionally on the chopping fringe of present watchmaking expertise to echo the reliability and accuracy of the historic Longines’ software watches they draw their inspiration from.
Longines Spirit is a glowing tribute to distinctive women and men who, by a report, an exploit or a show of braveness, have left their mark on historical past — encouraging new generations to push the boundaries.
Who’s the best buyer for the Spirit vary? Somebody who is aware of the model’s historical past properly or somebody who may want an introduction to the abovementioned cult classics? Or maybe an untapped demographic?
The Longines Spirit Assortment is made for contemporary pioneers: lively women and men for whom type and efficiency go hand-in-hand. People who find themselves not afraid of failing and all the time wish to go forward. This watch is related to values and with a powerful conviction encapsulated in its slogan: The Pioneer Spirit Lives On!