After visiting the Balkans of former Yugoslavia together with Croatia, Serbia, Montenegro, Bosnia and Herzagovina, and Slovenia, it was time for me to plan one other highway journey to the South Balkan. In fact I had spent a copious period of time in Greece already (which is taken into account south Balkans), however this journey can be centered on the a lot much less visited and completely underrated nations of Albania, Macedonia, and Kosovo.
Planning a visit to those off the crushed path nations could be daunting as a result of there’s much less data on the topic. Let’s be sincere, if you happen to inform a Western European you’ll Tirana, they’ll almost certainly reply with “wait by why??”
Don’t fear, these folks don’t know what they’re lacking out on and if you wish to see stunning mountain landscapes, gorgeous seashores, mesmerizing lakes, and extremely low-cost costs besides, look no additional than these locations.
This publish will go into element about my journey and can assist you to plan yours as nicely. You do not must do my precise journey. You may break it down relying on how a lot time you might have and which locations you wish to see!
The place I went within the South Balkans: Albania, Macedonia, Kosovo
I had simply over two weeks to spend within the area and initially I used to be going to focus it totally on Albania however I figured this is likely to be an excessive amount of time to spend on a rustic this small (seems I used to be proper). After researching the area, I figured I’d as nicely go to the neighboring nations of Macedonia and Kosovo as nicely which turned out to be a tremendous determination.
In case you don’t have at the least two weeks to dedicate to this journey, then what I did may really feel too rushed. As a substitute, I might focus most of my time on Albania first, earlier than doing offshoot journeys to Kosovo or Macedonia. If time isn’t of subject, then simply observe that I spent most of my time in Albania as a result of there’s essentially the most stuff to do there.
Here’s a map of my itinerary:
Hire a automotive
For this itinerary to work within the allotted time, then you could hire a automotive. Whereas public transportation is extensively obtainable and there are buses that join Tirana to areas everywhere in the area, it simply isn’t as environment friendly as renting a automotive.
As well as, a variety of the allure in these nations is visiting smaller cities that aren’t nicely linked or a mountain viewpoint over the Adriatic or Lake Ohrid.
Renting a automotive could be very low-cost within the area. I began my journey in Tirana and a rental automotive might be had for as low-cost as €10. I ended up paying about €18 a day for full insurance coverage protection and from a extra respected firm.
The roads within the these nations are a lot good once you’re on the primary freeways.
Start line
With this journey, you’ll be able to see from the itinerary map that it’s only a round loops that travels by means of Albania, Macedonia, and Kosovo. You may primarily begin in any of the three capitals (Tirana, Skopje, and Pristina) and make it work.
This fashion you gained’t have to mess with a technique drop offs along with your rental automotive and won’t have to ebook multi-city flight itineraries. For this journey, I began in Tirana.
From Tirana, I spent two nights exploring the capital earlier than driving south to the previous metropolis of Berat. From Berat, I drove south additional to discover the coast. Then one other evening in Gjirokaster earlier than driving to Macedonia. In Macedonia, I solely frolicked exploring Lake Ohrid and Skopje (which is usually what folks do).
From Macedonia, I crossed the border into Kosovo to see Pristina and Prizren earlier than driving again to Albania. This time, I got here again to Albania’s northern half to hike in its well-known and delightful mountain vary. After visiting Valbona Nationwide Park and occurring the Lake Koman ferry, I drove again to Tirana to finish the journey.
Begin in Tirana
Tirana is hands-down one among my favourite cities within the Balkans, filled with unbelievable eating places, cafés serving up excellent espresso for lower than $1, funky museums, fascinating open-air markets, and vibrant road artwork.
Spend your first day in Tirana getting acquainted with the realm round Skanderbeg Sq., visiting Bunkart 2 and/or the Home of Leaves, testing the socialist mural on the Nationwide Historical past Museum, visiting the newly renovated Pazar I Ri market space, and strolling across the hipster neighborhood of Blloku which was the middle of Communist rule throughout Enver Hoxha’s murderous reign.
This can be a nice space to exit at evening: I strongly suggest Colonial Cocktail Academy for creative mixology, Radio Bar for chilled-out drinks in a cool vintage-inspired settling, Nouveau Imprecise for probably the most photogenic terraces in Tirana, and Kino for a beautiful summer season backyard and fabulous combined drinks.
Berat, Albania
From Tirana, the primary cease on this epic highway journey is to the previous city of Berat. Whereas Tirana didn’t have actually any “previous cities” to talk of as a result of Communism, Berat is strictly what you’re pondering of on the subject of previous European villages.
Having spent a variety of time in Albania, I believe Berat might be essentially the most spectacular conventional city within the nation. Referred to as the town of 1000 home windows, this previous city was closely influenced by the Ottoman empire and you may see the identical architectural prowess as you do in sure components of Turkey.
Picturesque stone homes with darkish mahogany stucco roofs are constructed alongside the hillside. Don’t neglect the fortress on the prime of stated hill simply so as to add perspective. The city is extremely photogenic and you’ll get a few of your greatest footage of the nation right here.
For the very best views, go to the brand new bridge and take the picture head on. As well as, the views from the primary city sq. that’s adorned with quite a few cafes is wonderful.
Final however not least, if you happen to simply have one evening right here like I did, be sure that to completely go eat dinner at Do-it-yourself meals Lili situated proper within the previous city. The proprietor is extremely energetic and I’ve by no means seen a happier soul. Coupled with among the greatest Albanian meals you’ll discover and this can be a should go to.
The place I stayed in Berat
There are numerous locations to remain in Berat and all for very reasonably priced costs. I stayed at Guesthouse Arben Elezi which had comfy rooms and trendy finishings. Nevertheless, the very best a part of this guesthouse was its rooftop terrace with useless on views of Berat’s previous city. Having breakfast right here with these views was an absolute deal with.
Himare and the Albanian Riviera
After one evening in Berat, I drove south in direction of the Albanian coast to take pleasure in seashores and sea. The Adriatic shoreline of Albania is completely underrated in my view. It combines dramatic mountain peaks with that lovely Ionian sea that you would be able to’t get sufficient of. Driving down the coast jogged my memory of Crete in some components, combined in with Kefalonia, Greece at others. It’s spectacular and to not be missed!
There’s a steep ascent up the mountains however because it dips all the way down to sea stage, the views of the mountains towering over the ocean is breathtaking.
There are lots of cities and locations to go to on the coast. The principle cities of curiosity are:
- Vlore
- Appollonia
- Dhermi
- Himare
- Sarande
- Butrint Nationwide Park
- Ksamil
There are lots of smaller villages which can be additionally stunning however these are the primary ones. It’s not so huge of an space to cowl so I might suggest to simply select a city and base your self there for a number of nights.
After studying a variety of blogs, I settled on Himare which is usually in the midst of the southern coast and is understood to be a bit extra laid again however with stunning views. Dhermi is subsequent door however gave the impression to be a spot that specialised in excessive finish lodging which wasn’t what I used to be after. Sarande within the very south is a much bigger seaside city that had a really Southern California OC vibe (in addition to Vlore). Ultimately, I used to be very proud of my determination of staying in Himare.
Drop in on the Appollonia Ruins
On the way in which from Berat to Himare, you’ll cross by means of the previous Greek ruins at Appollonia. Right here you’ll discover a small acropolis sort of constructing with breathtaking views of the close by valleys. There’s a small entrance charge right here however it’s a good little cease alongside the way in which to the coast.
Go to Gjipe Seaside
All of the Albanians I met instructed me a go to to Gjipe Seaside was a should. It’s one of many nicest seashores within the coast and I must agree. Situated between Dhermi and Himare, this seaside is a little bit of a mission to get to. It includes driving down a small highway (it’s paved at the least), parking your automotive, and strolling 20 minutes down rocky roads to the seaside.
It’s not tough by any means however simply consider it would be best to pack numerous water for this journey. Ultimately, the seaside is completely stunning and has all of the qualities of an Ionian sea seaside you’ll be able to count on.
Having visited in late April, I used to be in a position to take pleasure in stunning climate (25C+) and nil crowds. Nevertheless, in the summertime months, count on this seaside (and each different one) to get tremendous packed.
Go to Butrint Nationwide Park
Butrint Nationwide Park is situated south of Sarande and is a UNESCO World Heritage web site that’s dwelling to maybe the least crowded Greek and Roman ruins you’ll discover.
The Amphitheatre right here was fully empty and I used to be in a position to simply chill right here on my own for fairly a while. There’s additionally a really properly preserved fortress with views of the encircling bay.
After getting your historical past in, be sure that to have lunch in Ksamil. Guvat Bar and Restaurant is situated proper on the seaside with gorgeous views of the turquoise water under. As this area is so near Greece, count on scrumptious Greek meals which is my favourite European delicacies.
Staying at Beleri Home
Beleri Home in Himare was a tremendous choice to remain! It was proper in entrance of the seaside and had nice ocean views. The city of Himare is far more chilled and a terrific place to base your self to discover the close by areas.
Gjirokaster
After a really enjoyable few days in Himare absorbing the solar and sea, it was time to proceed onwards to Gjirokaster, which is one other stunning medieval mountain city within the heartland of Albania. The drive from Himare to Gjirokaster is kind of scenic and simply over two hours.
Blue Eye of Sarande
Alongside the way in which, cease on the Blue Eye of Sarande which is a pure pool with extremely clear water coming from depths of fifty meters under. It’s potential to swim in these waters and it’s a standard vacationer attraction.
Gjiroskaster City
Upon arrive in Gjirokaster, you may be undoubtedly shocked by the pure great thing about the city. Like Berat, there’s an previous city and a brand new city however in fact, you’ll wish to keep the evening within the previous a part of the village on the hills.
Gjirokaster is named the stone metropolis and is one other stunning show of Ottoman metropolis planning. It’s comparable but additionally not that just like Berat, though each cities share the identical historical past. Each cities are extremely stunning and I’d say Gjirokaster is as stunning as Berat. Each cities are completely price visiting.
Gjirokaster feels a bit extra touristy than Berat as its important streets are stuffed with retailers that promote souvenirs and eating places. Nevertheless, visiting in late April throughout COVID meant neither city felt touristy in any way.
The place I stayed – Stone Rooms
I discovered a lodge referred to as the Stone Rooms on the prime of Gjirokaster with full panoramic views of the town for 20 euros an evening. It was a little bit of a mission to get right here however the views had been completely price it.
Lake Ohrid
After an evening in Gjirokaster, it’s time to make the drive into North Macedonia. This can be a lengthy drive day (virtually six hours) as you’ll largely drive by means of small mountainous roads. This drive is annoying and filled with questionable roads however the surroundings is nicely price it. The mountain space across the Greece border is very gorgeous.
Alongside the way in which, you’ll be able to break up the drive by stopping in Korce for lunch earlier than crossing the border into North Macedonia. Earlier than crossing the border, you’ll want to purchase a Macedonian Inexperienced cross in your automotive which is actually insurance coverage. The price of that is 40 euros.
After crossing the border, Lake Ohrid is one other 45 minutes drive. At this level, you’ll already be on the lake and it’s completely stunning. It is without doubt one of the largest lakes within the Balkans and its mountains background jogs my memory of visiting Lake Como in Italy or Kotor in Montenegro.
What to do in Lake Ohrid
Lake Ohrid is just like Lake Como in that there are a number of cities surrounding the lake. Nevertheless, I discovered that just one was historic and picturesque and that was of the city of Ohrid. Folks don’t speak a lot in regards to the different cities so I believe it’s protected to base your self completely in Ohrid.
Staying within the previous city of Ohrid is the way in which to go as you may be near all of the sights. The principle issues to see listed here are the fortress on the prime of the city and quite a few Orthodox church buildings. The fortress is a brief stroll and could be carried out in a couple of minutes.
Of the church buildings, essentially the most well-known and most picturesque is no doubt St John’s Church proper on the tip of the peninsula. From right here, you might have panoramic views of Lake Ohrid and this stunning Orthodox church perched by itself overlooking the lake.
Except for this, you’ll be able to take a catamaran across the lake as a tour. Merely stroll alongside the primary waterfront and there are many folks promoting excursions from their boats.
Merely, there’s simply time right here to calm down and take in the gorgeous lake views. I positively may have stayed in Ohrid for a number of extra days.
Keep at Villa Ohrid
There are such a lot of wonderful guesthouses in Lake Ohrid so your choices are countless. I needed a view of the city and of the lake so I ended up selecting to remain at Villa Ohrid. It didn’t disappoint as a result of I had a balcony that was entrance and middle viewing the lake. Waking as much as this view each morning was divine.
Skopje
After an exquisite few days in Lake Ohrid, it was time to proceed the journey onward to the capital of North Macedonia.
The drive is kind of scenic with the mountain views and terrace farms. There isn’t a complete lot to see in addition to the Ottoman period mosque in Tetove which has among the most gorgeous murals I’ve seen on a Mosque.
This space within the west of Macedonia is usually Albanian which I discovered shortly after that a lot of the inhabitants in North Macedonia is Albanian, just like how a lot of Southern Albania’s inhabitants contemplate themselves Greek.
Skopje is an attractive city and was positively essentially the most stunning capital of the three nations in my view (Tirana, Skopje, and Pristina). The city has a unbelievable vibe and power which I loved.
Strolling tour of Skopje
The free strolling tour of Skopje is an effective way to see all of the sights of the town. There’s one firm that does these and so they meet in the primary Sq. subsequent to the Alexander the Nice statue. My information was nice as he defined a lot in regards to the metropolis I wouldn’t have identified in any other case.
For starters, Macedonia is a former Yugoslavian nation and subsequently have a Slavic language. Nevertheless, I by no means knew that Greece additionally has a Macedonia half which is the area within the very north with Thessaloniki as its capital. In Historical instances, “Macedonia” encompassed what’s now modern-day North Macedonia and “South Macedonia” which is in Greece. Nevertheless, Slavs moved in through the fifth century AD and staked out their land.
Up till 2018, the nation of “Macedonia” was what’s now North Macedonia. Nevertheless, as North Macedonia desires to hitch the EU, they wanted to alter their identify as a result of their neighbors Greece was not proud of their declare to all the “Macedonia” identify. North Macedonia was subsequently created and adopted only some years in the past. Most individuals weren’t joyful in regards to the identify change and I can’t blame them!
However, the strolling tour is nice because it explores the brand new a part of the city with extra European and Communist type buildings in addition to the previous a part of city simply over the previous Bridge. This space was thriving in Ottoman instances and these days is dwelling to a Bazaar type neighborhood with retailers and eating places intently packed. It’s in reality, the second largest Bazaar type neighborhood after Istanbul!
Discover the Bohemian Neighborhood
I stayed within the Bohemian neighborhood that’s simply quarter-hour away from the town middle. I used to be beneficial this space because it was the place all of the cool bars and eating places are. If you need a extra neighborhood vibe, then that is positively the place you’ll wish to keep.
Make sure that to go to the cocktail bars of Casa and
Pristina
After Skopje, it’s a fast 1.5 hours north to the capital of Kosovo. The drive is basically uneventful and the border was fairly simple. The very first thing I seen upon coming into Kosovo was how wonderful the roads had been. It was a correct freeway that you just’d discover in the very best roads of Germany or america. By far the very best roads of the journey to this point.
Pristina was additionally a lot completely different than my expectations. Having gone by means of a heinous struggle solely 25 years in the past, I simply figured the town would nonetheless be recovering from the results of that. As Kosovo consists largely of Albanian folks, I figured the town can be extra grungy like Tirana.
Nevertheless, I used to be mistaken. Town feels far more constructed up and trendy than I figured. It was surprisingly clear and extra orderly than different Balkan capitals, particularly when in comparison with Tirana.
I solely stayed right here for a day so I didn’t get to discover it intimately but it surely additionally felt like there was barely much less character than the hip neighborhood of Blloku in Tirana for instance or the remnants of its previous city compared to Skopje.
I additionally took the free strolling tour in Pristina which I can suggest. There actually aren’t a complete lot of “should see” sights in Pristina as a lot of it was destroyed and a lot of the metropolis is kind of new.
Nevertheless, what me in Pristina was not its medieval historical past however fairly its trendy historical past. I discovered fairly a terrific deal speaking to my information in regards to the Kosovo struggle. Because it was so latest, anybody over the age of 30 remembers in nice element precisely what went down within the late 90s. He recounted how life was in these darkish instances which actually put it in perspective, just like my tour information in Kiev speaking in regards to the revolution in 2014.
Kosovars like to social gathering exhausting and also you’ll discover no scarcity of nightlife in Pristina. Persons are out and about in full power all all through the evening in the primary sq. in addition to the Fehmi Agani road. As nicely, the meals in Kosovo was the very best I had on the journey. In case you are searching for scrumptious grilled meats and crispy burek, you’ll get the very best of each in Kosovo!
Peje and Prizren
The following keep begins early within the morning with a departure of Pristina to the Rugova Valley within the west of the nation. I used to be beneficial this valley by varied blogs I met. It’s about 1.5 hours to the Rugova Valley mountains simply west of the city of Peje.
The mountains listed here are stunning. There’s ample mountain climbing to be carried out right here in addition to zip-lining. Nevertheless, on this itinerary might be a go to to the Valbona and Theth mountain ranges in Albania. In case you’re visiting Kosovo solely, then positively make it out to this a part of the nation. Nevertheless, if you’ll Valbona, I might give Peje and Ragova a skip even whether it is only for a half day. As a substitute, focus your power on Prizren.
Prizren City
Prizren is the previous and conventional city of Kosovo. It was the capital throughout olden instances earlier than transferring to Pristina. It’s a fairly massive city however with a small and historic previous city the place you’ll doubtless spend most of your time in.
The previous city is picturesque and incorporates a huge mosque and an previous Ottoman bridge that basically jogs my memory of the Stari Most in Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina. This can be a excellent place to take images particularly round sundown.
As for the previous city, there actually isn’t a lot to discover. It’s fairly tiny and you may stroll from one finish to the opposite in 5 minutes.
The streets are lined with bars, eating places, and shisha lounges. At evening, it turns into an enormous social gathering because it looks as if the entire city descends into it. Blended with vacationers, and you might be assured a giant evening out each evening.
Hike to the fortress of Prizren
Sitting atop the hill overlooking Prizren city is the previous fortress. It’s a fast 15 minute hike from the previous city and is price it for the panoramic views over the city. The fortress itself could be very spectacular. Constructed throughout Byzantine instances, it was additional developed through the Serbian and Ottoman empires. There isn’t any entrance charge.
Alongside the way in which, you’ll cross by means of an previous Serbian Orthodox church perched up on the hilltop overlooking the city. It’s an unfinished church which I’m certain was began someday through the Yugoslavian instances. I’m certain there is no such thing as a scarcity of debates about what to do with it among the many Kosovars.
What to eat in Prizren
There are tons of eating places in Prizren together with numerous Qebaptores (grill homes), Furra (bakeries), and bars. The very best restaurant on the town is no doubt the restaurant on the Tiffany lodge. This restaurant serves very conventional oven baked Albanian dishes that I didn’t discover anyplace else throughout my journey. Make sure that to strive the Elbasan lamb!
Costs in Kosovo are quantity the most cost effective I’ve ever seen in Europe. So low-cost that I didn’t even trouble with bank cards as a result of it felt foolish to pay a number of euros with a bank card. An espresso on the stylish Gatsby bar subsequent to the Bridge is €0.50 euros and a lunch of Qebapa is €2-3 euros.
Valbona and Theth
After Prizren, Kosovo is just about carried out and it’s time to return to Albania. This subsequent half is complicated and may simply take up a whole publish to clarify. I’ll attempt to summarize it as simply as potential.
Probably the most gorgeous and should do issues in Albania in my view is to go to the Accursed mountains which is Albania’s reply to the Italian Dolomites.
Valbona to Theth Hike
It’s completely gorgeous in its magnificence and the dramatic rocky peaks will convert any lowland decrease. Probably the most standard issues to do in Albania is to make the Valbona to Theth hike. Valbona and Theth are two nationwide parks situated subsequent to one another in Albania’s north. Valbona to the East and Theth to the west. They’re solely linked by foot that means there aren’t any roads connecting these two nationwide parks. Subsequently, many vacationers make the trek by foot and it’s probably the most epic hikes you are able to do.
Nevertheless, that is solely potential in the summertime months as snow typically blocks the way in which. This 6-7 hour hike can solely be carried out between the months of Might-September. I visited in early Might and sadly, the cross was closed. Subsequently, I went straight to Valbona from Kosovo as a substitute of doing the standard “route” for this journey.
In case you are visiting and the cross is certainly open (simply message one of many guesthouses in Valbona to know in regards to the circumstances), then that is the itinerary you’ll observe:
- Begin in Shkoder (in a single day)
- Within the morning, your guesthouse or lodge will prepare a transport to the Koman Lake Ferry, which is in itself extraordinarily epic (extra particulars on this shortly)
- Take the 2 hour ferry journey from Koman to Fierza
- From Fierza, take one other transport to your guesthouse in Valbona the place you’ll spend the evening
- The following day, make the 6-8 hour hike from Valbona to Theth, spend the evening at your guesthouse in Theth
- The next day, take a transport to Shkoder
For the above itinerary, you’ll be able to go away your rental automotive in Shkoder for the three days no drawback. You may’t take the automotive with you on this journey as a result of there is no such thing as a approach to get again to Valbona after you end your hike until you wish to stroll again! Subsequently, it’s a lot simpler to simply do that journey with out your rental automotive.
Valbona Nationwide Park
Since I couldn’t do the above hike, I made a decision to simply spend a while in Valbona with out going to Theth. Whereas the cross was closed, there are nonetheless hikes to be carried out with out a lot subject. The Maja e Rosni hike is the one which many individuals do. It’s 2600m to the highest and takes about 7 hours spherical journey. Nevertheless, it’s solely about 1600m to get to the primary viewpoint which affords you panoramic views of the valley.
That is what I ended up doing and it was extremely stunning. The views stretch for a lot of kilometers down the valley as you get the identical jagged peaks that I noticed within the Dolomites. It’s actually breathtaking right here.
Staying at Margjeka Resort
The most well-liked guesthouse that I examine was Margjeka. It’s situated on the very finish of the highway in Valbona and it’s situated on a hill which supplies it views of each mountain surrounding it. The rooms are comfy and the meals was scrumptious. Most significantly, waking as much as these views was one thing particular.
I might extremely suggest staying right here!
Koman Lake Ferry
Final however not least, the Koman lake ferry was the cherry on prime of the cake of a tremendous South Balkans itinerary. It may not sound fancy (and the ferry boat definitely isn’t) however this ferry journey between Koman and Fierza is without doubt one of the most spectacular issues I did.
Critically, you can not go away Albania with out at the least occurring this ferry journey.
Image towering Norwegian type Fjords on all sides of you as you sail throughout a turquoise river. It’s one thing particular and no footage do it justice!
From Valbona, it’s a 1.5 hour drive to the port city of Fierza. There’s nothing right here actually besides some eating places and this ferry. The ferry runs as soon as a day between Koman and Fierza (spherical journey). The price is simply €6 per particular person and about €40 for a automotive.
The ferry journey is simply two hours however you’ll want it lasts longer. After arriving in Koman, it’s a straightforward drive again to Shkoder or if you want to go dwelling by way of Tirana.
From right here, I thought of driving to Theth (since I couldn’t hike there) to see the distinction with Valbona. Nevertheless, in the long run, I didn’t wish to take care of it because the roads to Theth are very tough for the final 15 km. It’s not possible and not using a 4×4 and I didn’t wish to threat it. Ultimately, I made a decision to go to Montenegro subsequent door to get again to the ocean!
Nevertheless, that is saved for an additional publish!
Day-to-day breakdown of Albania, Macedonia, Kosovo
Here’s a daily breakdown of my itinerary:
Day 1: Tirana
Day 2: Tirana
Day 3: Berat
Day 4: Berat to Himare
Day 5: Himare (discover Butrint Nationwide Park)
Day 6: Himare (Calm down at seashores)
Day 7: Gjirokaster
Day 8: Lake Ohrid (lengthy day of driving)
Day 9: Lake Ohrid
Day 10: Skopje
Day 11: Skopje
Day 12: Pristina
Day 13: Pristina
Day 14: Prizren
Day 15: Prizren
Day 16: Valbona
Day 17: Again to Tirana (with the Lake Koman Ferry)
Proceed Studying:
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